Of the roughly 2,500 Mexican restaurants in the country in the 1980s, just 150 could be found in the Northeast United States. Forty years ago, when cities like Los Angeles and San Antonio had already developed distinct culinary identities around Mexican cooking, Mexican restaurants in the Northeastern United States were only just beginning to come of age. It’s not immediately apparent how recent an addition Mexican cooking is to New York City, in part because of how much the cuisine has accomplished in such little time. Unfortunately, in the case of flour tortillas, they’re also true. In a city that’s been told time and again that its Mexican food “sucks” by West Coasters, those are fighting words. “Flour tortillas? I can’t say I’ve ever been to a place that serves a good one,” says Natalie Hernandez, the chef and owner behind recently closed Bed-Stuy taqueria Boca Santa.
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